Choosing modernity

Past. Present. Future. Modernity does not care about eras. It embraces them all. An immersion in Chaumet’s archives around the 1970s allowed the very essence of modernity to be understood.

Its modernity, or rather “modernities”, were revealed through unexpected discoveries. It may seem surprising for a historic High Jewellery Maison such as Chaumet to be at the forefront of creative innovation in a period as extravagant as the 1970s.

In a context particularly conducive to all kinds of cultural revolutions, the profusion of new ideas sometimes made things disordered and inaudible. To understand its substance, we have to go back to the real context.

The 1970s was a period of experimentation and freedom. Whether music, politics, fashion, ideals or space exploration, everything was an opportunity for new experiences. In order to embrace change and venture off the beaten tracks, it took new names, new artisans and new minds leading the way towards innovation. These minds left their mark on the history of jewellery, which began in ancient times. They played a role in crucial milestones through technical progress, new aesthetics and free concepts.

How can we retrace Chaumet’s path and contribution to this rich era?

The perfect example is a pair of textured gold ear ornaments, which wrapped around the back of the ear, allowing the gold to illuminate the face. This radical piece was part of the first to join the Arcade collection in 1970. Both a collection and a boutique, from the outset the Arcade made innovation a must, in parallel to Chaumet’s jewellery-making excellence.

The Maison fully embraced the turning point between the 1960s and 1970s, when everything became possible.

The Arcade experience was part of an unprecedented space-time, from modernism to postmodernism. Extraordinarily creative designers such as René Morin allowed Chaumet to offer itself a second life, a second boutique, a second image. The modernity of the concept shook Place Vendôme. The new space was futuristic and designed for a public demanding exciting, creative freedom. The Arcade proposed unique jewellery, where metal, the central component, came to life and the hierarchy of stones was blown apart.

The never-before-seen shapes were radical and very much ahead of their time. The colours bright, bold, assertive. The ways of wearing the pieces unique. Jewellery was treated like a work of art– some pieces were even exhibited at the Biennale des Antiquaires art and antique fair – and the decorative objects saw themselves as gems.

In this respect, Helen O’Hagan described the Bestiaire fabuleux pieces as “contemporary chefs d’oeuvre” and declared that these “civilised primitives, with their surprising nugget-like textures, are twentieth century marvels.”

The Maison’s jewellery-making excellence was not lacking and its exceptional expertise lent prestige to metalwork.

Experimentation was at the heart of this approach: the artisans were given complete design freedom, both in the design studio and workshop, to such an extent that they claimed ownership of the use of gold nuggets,rechristening their finish the “Arcade polish”. Gold was hammered, polished, textured, brushed, adopted organic shapes and moulded itself to the skin,
but it was not alone.

Chaumet’s bronze work also deserves to be looked at in detail, with its patinas, voluptuous shapes and very different sheen.

Hard gemstones offered a new colour palette. Lapislazuli, malachite and tiger’s eye lent themselves to engraving and shaping. Colour had rarely played such an important role in the creative design in the past.

When you look at the jewellery brought together for the Un Âge d’Or exhibition half a century after it was designed, it is easy to understand the impact and influence of the pieces on the bigger jewellery story. Placing the pieces in their social, artistic and cultural context showcases their intrinsic modernity.

You will make numerous discoveries and the surprises will change your view of Chaumet. This exhibition was all about capturing the era accurately while managing the amazing feat of creating aesthetically powerful and timeless jewellery. Continued excellence, the jewellery of yesterday exchanging with the jewellery of today. The very essence of modernity fuelling the art of jewellery.