Chaumet imagines a lush Garden on beautiful sunny days, where pieces imbued with poetry and character flourish, featuring brooches, rings and necklaces adorned with the most beautiful gemstones, in vibrant colours.
From 12 July to 28 August 2019, the Maison unveils an unprecedented exhibition at the Grimaldi Forum in Monaco, comprising 250 pieces that showcase the tiara in all its glory accompanied by exceptional sovereign jewels. It's an opportunity to reveal rare pieces, historical gems and spectacular sets. Under the patronage of His Serene Highness Prince Albert II, Chaumet in Majesty. Jewels of Sovereigns Since 1780 is orchestrated by two curators with renowned expertise of royal courts: Stéphane Bern, a media and cultural figure, and Christophe Vachaudez, an historian specialising in jewellery.
A signifier of sovereignty since ancient times, the tiara was the emblem of power
chosen by Napoléon I to express the grandeur and magnificence of his reign.
The exhibition begins with this historic act, further magnified by the Empress
Joséphine, the first great client in Chaumet history, who brought a new definition
to imperial in the creations of Marie-Étienne Nitot, founder of the Maison.
A master of the art of jewellery, Chaumet became the jeweller to many European
courts, and also a purveyor to both grand aristocratic families and the bourgeoisie,
as the tiara became an attribute of success and wealth.
Portait of Napoléon I by Jacques-Louis David
© RMN-Grand Palais / Franck Raux
Micromosaic set by Nitot & Fils, circa 1811.
© The Museum of Decorative Arts in Prague
Malachite cameo set once belonging to Empress Joséphine, circa 1810.
Replica of the ruby and diamond parure belonging to Empress Marie-Louise, 1811.
As the centrepiece of the wedding basket that traditionally contained the precious gifts given to a young bride, the tiara acquired an important status during the 19th and 20th centuries as the tangible sign of the union of two families and two people, the effective crowning of a love story. This tradition is intimately connected to that of sentimental jewellery, created by Chaumet since the start to celebrate the bonds of the heart.
The marriage of Napoléon I and Archduchess Marie-Louise, by Georges Rouget, 1810.
Pinks tiara ordered by Mrs Henri de Wendel, 1905.
Princess Henckel Von Donnersmarck's tiara, circa 1900.
Tiara and necklace from the wedding basket of the Dukes of Montellano
A repository of history and memory, a tiara conveys the identity of grand families. Passed down from generation to generation, it was sometimes given a contemporary reimagining, reworked according to the fashions and styles of the time, or even broken apart to be shared out. This exceptional gem was also often designed to be adapted into multiple forms for various occasions, capable of becoming a necklace, bracelet or several brooches, a transformative art in which Chaumet’s virtuosity truly shine.
Designed to take the shape of a choker or a longer necklace hung with one or more medallions, this marquise-motif tiara tells a story specific to transformable jewellery. As family members pass and memories fade, the secrets of a jewel can be lost from one generation to the next. Such was the case for this tiara, dated to 1935 and recently found by Chaumet. A creation whose different modes of transformation and wearing had been forgotten, and the beauty of which has been revealed once more in this exhibition.
Bows and links evoking loving attachment, revisited classical architecture, poetic flora or majestic stars... In an unceasing dialogue with the arts of its era, head jewellery combines themes, forms and motifs, drawing on Chaumet’s favoured sources of inspiration to compose a creative and singular repertoire.
Radiant Sun aigrette, 1916
Vertige tiara, 2017.
Pansy flower tiara, circa 1850.
An apogee of femininity, the tiara is a fashion accessory as much as an object of power and influence. Wearing one requires a special level of preparation, a carefully considered hairstyle and a certain ability to present oneself. Going hand in hand with the evolution of the female silhouette over time, it is a statement of style and an expression of art de vivre, balanced between convention and transgression. From the imperial ceremonies of yesteryear through Belle Époque receptions, café society parties, gala soirées, opera openings and contemporary occasions, tiaras and head jewellery have consistently illuminated festive evenings. Chaumet perpetuates this same art de vivre today, from High Jewellery collections to special orders, to transform the presence of women.
Kathleen and Rosemary Kennedy with Rose Elizabeth Fitzgerald when leaving the Buckingham Palace 1937.
© Hulton Archive / Imagno / Getty Images
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