Installation A Golden Age: 1965-1985 Chaumet 12 Place Vendôme

The Power of Colour

The art of colour is an integral part of Chaumet’s history, and the seventies and eighties saw the arrival of new harmonies which played with the opacity of hard gemstones such as lapis lazuli, malachite and carnelian, coupling them with shimmering yellow gold.

GABRIELLE DE MONTMORIN, jewellery journalist

"Arcade polish" gold arm ornament with ornamental stones

Just like the pink carpet that René Morin, director of Chaumet’s design studio, had laid in his office at 12 Place Vendôme, the 1970s and 1980s were all about colour. And in particular, coloured ornamental gemstones.

Of course, it wasn’t their first appearance in the Maison’s creative history. It had already crossed paths with Nitot & Fils’ carnelian intaglios under the First Empire, onyx in Art Deco pieces and turquoise in the parure with bunches of grapes by Fossin around 1825.

Unicorn clip by René Morin

A century and a half later, Chaumet boldly chose to combine energies by bringing together hardstones and intricate yellow gold.

Starting with deep blue lapis lazuli blocks in their natural state, used to create the forehead of a unicorn mounted on a clip, unprecedented colour combinations brought vibrancy to a multitude of graphic pieces.

A ring adorned the finger with a lapis lazuli rectangle contrasting with a gold band, another framed a red-orange carnelian triangle with textured metal, while a brooch set with a generous aquamarine sent lapis lazuli arrows flying.

Bee brooch in ornamental stones

Invited to make an appearance on figurative clips, turquoise beads either played the lyre or raced across the abdomen of a bee brooch, an English horse guard’s headdress was shaped in lapis lazuli and the veins of malachite highlighted the curve of a mandolin.

ARGINE BROOCH, QUEEN OF CLUBS

After passing through the workshop of talented sculptor Robert Lemoine, entrusted with the glyptic work for the Maison at the time, malachite was transformed to create a bodice dressing an aquamarine bust with a diamond ruff on a brooch depicting Argine, the queen of clubs from the Carte à jouer collection by Pierre Sterlé – the stock was bought by Chaumet in 1976.

Military trophy brooch

The colour harmonies also frequently required coral. This natural gem offered a branch on which a lapis lazuli sparrow sat, unless it was coupled with carnelian and malachite on a dragon with spines and golden claws.

Perfect for accessorising a Woodstock-style jumpsuit or Sonia Rykiel knit with visible seams worn with a mini skirt.

Choosing Modernity

The Installation

The Power of Colour

Choosing Modernity

A Golden Age